During the
ten-week course, my camera was almost always with me. In a desperate
attempt to realise some talent that I may or may not have, I was
striving to document, to *capture* every fleeting image. I found
that my technique improved, as did my understanding of light and
cameras, and I began to approach all situations as photographic
opportunities, often eagerly capitalising upon them. Being to
able to walk down a street waving a camera in front of me was
not only an invitation for speculative would-be-muggers, it was
also a method of circumventing my own shy disposition, a way to
exploit subjects, ripe for the bagging.
Long after
I had finished the course, I was still lugging my camera around,
and I realised that I expended more energy *capturing* events
than actually *experiencing* them. I began to feel akin to the
herds of primary-colour-clad herd tourists, armed with camcorders,
like some form of voyeuristic proboscis extending from their eye
sockets. The kind of creature that spends their entire holiday
*recording* their holiday at the expense of actually having a
holiday.
I stopped
taking photographs. Most of the time.
During August
1999, I was travelling in northern Turkey, to get myself into
the path of the solar eclipse. For a day or so, my friends and
I chilled out in the tiny Black Sea village of Amasra, a beautiful
labyrinth of alleyways between mosques and Ottoman houses, perched
on a precarious coastal promontory.
One morning,
while exploring the trinket shops, two of us stumbled across a
semi-covered village market. It was just off a street we had walked
down dozens of times, but somehow we had missed the dark, tin-roofed
shed, where dozens of tanned and wizened women in patterned skirts
and headscarves were squatting, peddling their home grown courgettes,
chilies, tomatoes and olives.
I stood there
gaping, a cultural alien from another continent. There was something
about magnificent about the moment, the scene, the manifestation
- it was literally *momentous*, animated still, like a flicker
of recalled dream. I was caught in the moment, the composition
of the sunlight, the intense morning heat, the bustling noise
and the weird un-sea-like air of the Black Sea, which mingled
with the scent of my own sweat, the buckets of feta and olives
and the olfactory soup of fresh fruit and vegetables.
There was
not a thing quaint, or even annoyingly touristic about the situation.
I felt invisible, the Turkish babooshkas didn't pay us a bit of
notice. Amasra isn't on any tourist trails, more of a quiet seaside
resort for people living inland, so perhaps we seemed as 'other'
as the families who roared in their crammed automobiles.
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